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​Bánh Nậm

Averey Nguyen
Memories are Fickle
Memories were hard to come by, moments left you like handfuls of water cupped in your hands, slipping through the cracks. As far as you can remember, you see only the photographs taken, lost in time with the moments your seven-year-old brain couldn’t grasp. Perhaps you’d remember the cart ride with your cousin or the movie your auntie drove you to by motorbike, but all you remembered were the things that were photographed, recalling brief stories. Yet besides all, without fail, the food memories you made always came when you thought of Vietnam and the dishes you had: phở, chả giò (egg rolls) and, of course, you couldn’t forget bánh nậm.

You could remember arriving at mệ ngoại, your maternal grandmother's house, and the rice and eggs she made. You called her thạc sĩ nấu ăn, the Master of Cooking, a term you learnt before your trip. You recalled your mother teaching you words to say, given your limited vocabulary in Vietnamese. Looking back, you wished you retained more of the words you were taught instead of forcing yourself to choke down the confusion from failing to compute translations. You truly missed the praise you received, surprising your relatives with your speaking ability, being born outside of your native country.

Bánh nậm was the dish you adored, you once had at a restaurant, steamed to perfection and wrapped in banana leaf. The unwrapped dish was delectable, silky rice cake, fragile enough to fall apart if you weren't careful, topped with shrimp and pork mince, sweet and tangy nước chấm, and fried shallots. You had probably too many, satisfied with the simplicity of the flavours. It was the bánh nậm you missed most, you didn’t know why.

It was all that mattered to you, and you remembered that much.

When your auntie came back with the knowledge of the recipe to bánh nậm, you were excited, unknowing of the amount of work and labour put into the dish. You spent hours wiping banana leaves, preparing batter, making cakes, wrapping them up. So much work for a dish you devoured in minutes. You wished such a dish wouldn’t take so much, but it was the beauty of food; so much labour and love goes into it, you couldn’t get enough. It made you recognize how food is a love language.

And you couldn’t think of it in any other way.
Time: About 2 days
Servings: 8 - 10 
Ingredients
Batter:

2 cups rice flour
¼ - ½ cups of tapioca starch (to preference)
1 tablespoon table salt 
6 cups water
2 tablespoons neutral oil


Banana Leaf:
16 ounces frozen banana leaf (1 package)
½ cup neutral oil


Filling:
1 cup dried wood-ear mushrooms (optional)
½ pound shrimp
½ pound pork, ground
2 tablespoons annatto seed oil
1 teaspoon oyster sauce
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 shallot, minced
​½ tablespoon fish sauce


Nước Chấm:
1 cup fish sauce
1 ½ cups hot water
½ lemon, juiced
3 tablespoons sugar
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 Thai chili peppers, chopped

  1. Soak your wood ear mushroom for at least 2 hours or until the mushroom becomes bouncy and slightly translucent (for best results, soak overnight). Set aside.
  2. Nước chấm: Mix your sugar with water until dissolved, stir in the fish sauce and lemon juice. Add garlic and chili. Store in a mason jar in the fridge, this can be stored for up to a week. For best results, store for at least a few hours before serving.
  3. Prepare the banana leaf; defrost, rinse and wipe each leaf with a paper towel, cut the leaves into as even rectangles as possible (about 5 inches by 10 inches). Set aside.
  4. Start on the batter; mix the dry ingredients together before mixing in the water and oil until it becomes a homogenous liquid. More tapioca starch gives it a more firm texture.
  5. (OPTIONAL) Let batter sit until some of the water separates (preferably overnight). Replace the same amount of water removed with filtered cold water, mix well. Repeat once.
  6. In a large pot, pour the mixture in and stir over medium low heat until the batter becomes a smooth, milky paste. Stir continuously to prevent chunks. Scoop into a large bowl.
  7. Prepare the filling; devein the shrimp, boil until just cooked, shell the shrimp
  8. Cook the pork over medium heat until just done.
  9. Using a food processor, blend the cooked pork, shrimp and rehydrated wood ear mushroom until finely chopped. You may chop by hand or use a blender if you do not have a food processor.
  10. In a skillet or wok, stir fry the shallot and garlic in the annatto seed oil until fragrant, then add your chopped mixture.
  11. Add your fish and oyster sauce, continue to cook the meat until dry, remove from heat and transfer into a bowl.
  12. To prepare the rice cakes, take a banana leaf rectangle (layer a second leaf or any scraps if the first is torn), lightly brush with oil. 
  13. Scoop about a ¼ cup of the rice paste and spread evenly in a rectangle. Keep the cake about ⅛ in thick and leave about an inch of space on the banana leaf between the paste and the edge of the banana leaf.
  14. Layer about 1 ½ tablespoons of the filling onto the rice paste, spread in the middle of the cake, leaving some room at the edge.
  15. Fold the left and right sides together, then fold the remaining sides to maintain the rectangular shape.
  16. Repeat until the ingredients are out.
  17. Layer cakes in a bamboo steamer (or a regular steamer is fine) and steam for 30 minutes.
  18. Let the cakes cool at least 5 - 10 minutes before serving.
  19. Serve with nước chấm (and optional fried shallots) or eat on its own