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A (slightly) Spicy stew

By Graham Piche
Spice can be more contentious than a federal election. Many despise it, hissing when even the slightest bit of capsaicin hits their tongue, while others find food utterly bland without a good array of it. My mum falls into the first group, while my dad and I fall into the latter. This recipe, or rather this iteration of it, was born from a compromise.

One day in late 2021, my dad decided to take a look at the Ottawa Citizen’s food section. Winter was approaching, and he was looking for cozy, warm dishes to try out. He read one over: a Somali dish named Digaag Quimbe, and decided to try it out. It was nothing out of the ordinary. Dad has always tried new recipes, branching out from the recipe books he’s owned for as long as I can remember. 
As he cooked, he made one simple, yet pivotal decision. The recipe called for jalapenos. Thinking of mum, whose spice tolerance was minimal despite her love of Indian food, he ditched the peppers and decided to stick with only the xawaash spice mix to heat things up. After a couple hours, the stew was done. The aromas of cooked chicken and spices rose up to my room, one that would become familiar as the years passed. 
We each served ourselves and took our seats. It was more or less like any other dinner until we all took a bite. Each of us remarked on just how good it was. It was a balanced, hearty, and most importantly delicious meal. By the time I finished my first serving, I knew it was going to be a favourite for years to come.
Indeed, my prediction held strong. The xawaash gets its own container in the cupboard, and my dad still makes the dish every month or so. Despite how many times I’ve had it, it never fails to make a bad day okay, and a good one great. 


Digaag Quimbe

Makes 4 servings 

Ingredients- 1 red pepper, stemmed, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon of tomato paste
½ cup of plain yogurt
2 tablespoons of xawaash spice mix
2 teaspoons of kosher salt
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 red onion, chopped finely
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tablespoon of minced ginger
1 russet potato, cut into bite-sized pieces
2 carrots, cut into thin horizontal slices
1 lb of boneless, skinless chicken thighs cut into bite-size pieces
1 cup of unsweetened coconut milk
1 cup of cooked rice, for serving

​Hardware- 
Blender
Cutting board
Knife 
Medium-sized pot
Large, heavy pot 
​Wooden spoon

Prepare and organize ingredients beforehand. In a blender, combine tomatoes, bell peppers, tomato paste, yogurt, and salt. Puree and mix until smooth. Set aside. On the side, fill a pot with the rice and 2 cups of water. Cook according to instructions on the package.  Warm olive oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, and ginger. Stir occasionally until ingredients begin to soften. This will take about 5 minutes.  Stir in the mixture from step 1, bring to a boil and immediately lower the heat, cover and let cook until very fragrant.  Stir in chicken, carrots, potatoes, and coconut milk.  Put the lid back on and stir occasionally, until the chicken is fully cooked and the vegetables are tender. This will take about 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Serve over rice and enjoy!


Xawaash Spice Mix

Makes about 1 ¼ cups

Ingredients- 
One 2-inch cinnamon stick 
½ cup cumin seeds
½ cup coriander seeds
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
6 cardamom pods
1 teaspoon whole cloves
​2 tablespoons ground turmeric

Hardware- Zip-lock bag
Object suitable for smashing things
Small pan or skillet
Coffee grinder or mortar and pestle
Fine sieve
Bowl
Whisk 
​Airtight container

Organize ingredients beforehand.  Put the cinnamon stick into a zip-lock bag, and close it. Reduce it to small pieces with a rolling pin, skillet, or something similar. Combine the cinnamon and all other ingredients except the turmeric in a small skillet over medium heat.  Cook, stirring constantly until very aromatic and the spices are lightly toasted. Let cool. Transfer the mixture to a coffee grinder and grind into a fine powder. If you do not have a grinder, use a mortar and pestle. Transfer the ground spices to a fine sieve set over a bowl and sift it. Regrind any large pieces left on the sieve and add them to the bowl. Add the turmeric. Whisk it well to combine, before transferring the spice mix to an airtight container. This will keep well for about 6 months in a cool, dry place.