By: Lily French
Airy, delicate, decadence. Japan’s rendition of the roll cake—with its chiffon sponge layers and billowy fillings—has captured the hearts of dessert lovers globally. Originating in Europe, these sweet treats have undergone a delightful transformation. Compared to their cousin—the Swiss roll cake—the Japanese roll cake arrives in daintier portions, with a sugar content that whispers rather than shouts. At times graced with fresh fruit, they are renowned for their fluffiness (ふわふわ in japanese), subtly sweet flavours, and pillow-soft texture—consistent with Japan's charming dessert aesthetics.
Story:
Since her 11th grade exchange to France in 1998, my mother has had one dream: to be a pâtissière. As a child, the exotic confections concealed behind crystalline glass beckoned to her. Artisan bread with golden-brown crusts, towering cakes adorned with edible flowers and swirls of frosting. Each dessert a masterpiece in its own right, with flaky, butter-scented layers, rainbow-hued fillings, and glossy glazes. Poised regally in display cases, even the most uppity person would fall to temptation. Unfortunately, life got in the way. She by no means grew up privileged, so she hung up her apron and focused on obtaining a more "realistic" career. Eventually, she buried her young-minded wish. During this period, she met my father, and—against tradition and her parents' approval—she flew 10 thousand kilometres to a foreign country to build a family and become a nurse. On top of studying, adjusting to such a wildly different society, and working part-time at a hospital, she gave birth to me: a chubby baby with sweet-tooth and a penchant for pickiness. After nearly a decade, she dusted off her long-rejected apron and began to bake, tweaking recipes and forging her own, using my father and I as willing test subjects.
For my birthday, it became a tradition for her to bake a strawberry shortcake, as it was one of her first recipes. Then, two years later, a tragedy befell our family - me, in particular. My only-child privilege was shattered by a snotty infant with whom I'd have to share everything, from toys to snacks to parental affection. With this cataclysmic change, I became obsessed with fairness. A menace who would measure slices of cake to the millimetre and use a stopwatch to check how much time our parents would spend on us.
Fast forward a bit, and our growing family moved houses twice. In our shiny new home, the kitchen was the first thing to be unpacked. My mom returned to baking vigorously for her O.R. coworkers and elementary-aged children.
During the week leading up to my 13th birthday, the kitchen became a culinary laboratory. Late at night, I listened to the beeps of the oven, the scratching of pencils on paper, and the metallic clatter of trays and whisks. On the morning of my birthday, she revealed the cause of the nocturnal noise. She had created a recipe for us!
With the whoosh of a teatowel, four identical, strawberry-filled rolls of perfection sat in fridge-chilled glory.
One for each family member, equal at last.
For my birthday, it became a tradition for her to bake a strawberry shortcake, as it was one of her first recipes. Then, two years later, a tragedy befell our family - me, in particular. My only-child privilege was shattered by a snotty infant with whom I'd have to share everything, from toys to snacks to parental affection. With this cataclysmic change, I became obsessed with fairness. A menace who would measure slices of cake to the millimetre and use a stopwatch to check how much time our parents would spend on us.
Fast forward a bit, and our growing family moved houses twice. In our shiny new home, the kitchen was the first thing to be unpacked. My mom returned to baking vigorously for her O.R. coworkers and elementary-aged children.
During the week leading up to my 13th birthday, the kitchen became a culinary laboratory. Late at night, I listened to the beeps of the oven, the scratching of pencils on paper, and the metallic clatter of trays and whisks. On the morning of my birthday, she revealed the cause of the nocturnal noise. She had created a recipe for us!
With the whoosh of a teatowel, four identical, strawberry-filled rolls of perfection sat in fridge-chilled glory.
One for each family member, equal at last.
RECIPE
Makes 2 rolls or one long roll.
Takes 1h 30min - 2h
|
Ingredients:
Sponge cake base - 6 large eggs - ⅔ cup sugar (140g) - ¾ cup cake flour (105g) Whipped Cream - 1 cup heavy cream (250ml) - ⅓ cup sugar (70g) - 1 tsp vanilla extract (5ml) Fruit of choice, preferably some sort of berry. |
Kitchen equipment:
- Glass or metal mixing bowls - Whisk - Measuring cups/spoons - Rubber spatula - Electric mixer - Fine mesh sieve - Shallow tray - Parchment paper - Knife or scissors - Cling film |
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Preheat the oven to 360°F (182°C).
2. Separate the egg yolks and white into two bowls, whisk the yolks.
3. Pour ⅓ cup of sugar into the egg yolks, then whisk until light and creamy. I recommend an electric mixer unless you want an arm workout.
4. Sift in ¾ cup of flour, whisk to combine. Stop when there are no more lumps of flour.
5. Make the meringue. Beat egg whites until opaque and bubbly, then gradually add ⅓ cup sugar in increments until the mixture is fluffy, shiny, and holds its pointed shape when the mixer is lifted (this is called stiff peaks in baking lingo).
6. Line the tray. Cut the parchment paper's corners for a more snug fit. YOU CANNOT REPLACE THE PARCHMENT WITH OIL, THE PARCHMENT WILL BE USED LATER!!!
7. Combine the egg mixtures. In three increments, gently fold them together using a rubber spatula, being careful not to overmix and deflate the air in the mixture. Use gentle upward scooping/slicing motions to incorporate the ingredients until combined. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP!!!
8. Pour the batter into the lined pan and even out the surface of the batter with your spatula. Drop the tray on your work surface a few times to release any large air bubbles.
9. Bake for 8 minutes.
10. While you are waiting, make some whipped cream! 1 cup heavy cream. ⅓ cup sugar. 1 tsp vanilla extract (use the good kind, it makes a big difference). Beat with an electric mixer until medium-stiff peaks form.
11. Your rolls' sponge-base has finished! Right after you pull it out of the oven, slide it slowly off of the tray.
12. Cut it in half, the smaller size makes it easier to roll. You can keep it whole, too, but you and your dessert will suffer from that decision unless you have mastered the art of cake rolling.
13. Assemble. The sponge-base must be cooled completely otherwise the whipped cream WILL melt. If its winter, and you are as impatient as I am, you can chuck it outside for a bit. Once cool, plop some whipped cream on the cake and spread it evenly. Leave a little border around the edges; when you roll the cake, the whipped cream might squish out.
14. Dice some strawberries (or whatever fruit you chose) and sprinkle them on the cake layer. The more fruit you add, the harder it will be to roll, so be reasonable.
15. Roll the cake delicately. Be sure not to squeeze the cake too tightly because this may create cracks or squish the filling out. Then, securely wrap the cake with cling film and chill it in the refrigerator for 30-45 minutes..
Try to eat the cake within three days for the best results.
2. Separate the egg yolks and white into two bowls, whisk the yolks.
3. Pour ⅓ cup of sugar into the egg yolks, then whisk until light and creamy. I recommend an electric mixer unless you want an arm workout.
4. Sift in ¾ cup of flour, whisk to combine. Stop when there are no more lumps of flour.
5. Make the meringue. Beat egg whites until opaque and bubbly, then gradually add ⅓ cup sugar in increments until the mixture is fluffy, shiny, and holds its pointed shape when the mixer is lifted (this is called stiff peaks in baking lingo).
6. Line the tray. Cut the parchment paper's corners for a more snug fit. YOU CANNOT REPLACE THE PARCHMENT WITH OIL, THE PARCHMENT WILL BE USED LATER!!!
7. Combine the egg mixtures. In three increments, gently fold them together using a rubber spatula, being careful not to overmix and deflate the air in the mixture. Use gentle upward scooping/slicing motions to incorporate the ingredients until combined. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP!!!
8. Pour the batter into the lined pan and even out the surface of the batter with your spatula. Drop the tray on your work surface a few times to release any large air bubbles.
9. Bake for 8 minutes.
10. While you are waiting, make some whipped cream! 1 cup heavy cream. ⅓ cup sugar. 1 tsp vanilla extract (use the good kind, it makes a big difference). Beat with an electric mixer until medium-stiff peaks form.
11. Your rolls' sponge-base has finished! Right after you pull it out of the oven, slide it slowly off of the tray.
12. Cut it in half, the smaller size makes it easier to roll. You can keep it whole, too, but you and your dessert will suffer from that decision unless you have mastered the art of cake rolling.
13. Assemble. The sponge-base must be cooled completely otherwise the whipped cream WILL melt. If its winter, and you are as impatient as I am, you can chuck it outside for a bit. Once cool, plop some whipped cream on the cake and spread it evenly. Leave a little border around the edges; when you roll the cake, the whipped cream might squish out.
14. Dice some strawberries (or whatever fruit you chose) and sprinkle them on the cake layer. The more fruit you add, the harder it will be to roll, so be reasonable.
15. Roll the cake delicately. Be sure not to squeeze the cake too tightly because this may create cracks or squish the filling out. Then, securely wrap the cake with cling film and chill it in the refrigerator for 30-45 minutes..
Try to eat the cake within three days for the best results.